回顾RECAP | Fashion Academy 坎普：时尚札记讲座

{{newsData.publisher_name}} {{newsData.update_time}} 浏览：{{newsData.view_count}}

来源 | {{newsData.source}} 作者 | {{newsData.author}}

Karen Van Godtsenhoven演讲现场 Karen giving the Camp lecture

8月4日，上海当代艺术馆很荣幸邀请美国大都会艺术博物馆联合策展人Karen Van Godtsenhoven来到MoCA时尚学院，和国内的朋友分享关于今年大都会时装大展“坎普：时尚札记”的策展理念与策划时装设计展览背后的故事。

On August 4th, Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai was honored to welcome Karen Van Godtsenhoven, the Associate Curator at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, to give a lecture about the 2019 Met Gala “Camp: Notes on Fashion.”

Karen Van Godtsenhoven演讲现场 Karen Van Godtsenhoven giving the Camp lecture

讲座的观众 Audience at the Lecture

这个关于坎普的展览灵感来源于苏珊桑塔格在1964年出版的论文“坎普札记”。由于现代语言几乎没有任何方式能够直接翻译坎普的概念，观众对于展览的体验变得非常主观：每个观众能够探索他们自己对于“奢侈和夸张”的看法。正如Karen在讲座中所解释的那样，坎普今天在社会，政治和经济不稳定中仍然具有相关性的原因是它从未失去挑战现状的力量。

The inspiration of this particular exhibition was derived from Susan Sontag’s essay “Notes on Camp” published in 1964. Because there is hardly any direct translation in modern languages to interpret the concept of Camp, the experience of the exhibition itself is very subjective: every audience will be able to explore their own perspective of “extravagance and exaggeration.” As Karen explained in the lecture, the reason why Camp is still relevant today in the midst of social, political, and economic instability is that it has ever lost its power to challenge the status quo.

观众问答环节 Q&A Session

在讲座的前半部分，Karen专注于展览的历史，也就是实体展览的第一部分。她追溯了坎普在欧洲大陆的不同语言和时代中的用法："坎普可以用作形容词，表达人和物的品质；也可以作为名词，描述坎普的角色；甚至可以作为动词，代表一种表演的姿势；以及一个副词，用来表达坎普式的事情。"

For the first half of the lecture, Karen focused on the historical part of the show, which is the first part of the physical exhibition. She traced Camp’s usage in different languages and eras across the European continent, "Camp can be used as an adjective, a quality of people and objects; as a noun, describing the camp character; as a verb, as a performative gesture; and as an adverb, for doing something in a camp way.”

上海当代艺术馆执行馆Miriam孙文倩和Karen Van Godtsenhoven

展示观众礼品

展览的前五个场域空间由文学和历史文献的方式呈现，其中出现了坎普的各种形式，并且该词的使用决定了每个空间的概念。坎普的根源可以追溯到古希腊、凡尔赛宫的法庭、维多利亚的地下党、魏玛柏林以及20世纪60年代纽约市的安迪沃霍尔和苏珊桑塔格。穿越狭窄的空间，观展者可以体验坎普从秘密的地下运动演变为主流文化的过程，这与1969年纽约市石墙旅馆骚乱以来LGBTQ权利的转变和接受相呼应。

The first five galleries are organized along the literary and historical documents in which a variant of camp appears, and the usage of the word determines the concept of each space. Camp’s roots are traced through Ancient Greece, the court of Versailles, the Victorian underground, Weimar Berlin and the 1960s New York City of Andy Warhol and Susan Sontag. Moving through the narrower whispering galleries, one experiences camp’s evolution from a clandestine, underground movement into the open air of mainstream culture, which echoes the transformation and acceptance of LGBTQ rights since the 1969 Stonewall Inn Riots in New York City.

Karen Van Godtsenhoven与获获得礼品观众 The lucky audience

左一：上海当代艺术馆馆长龚明光、中：Karen Van Godtsenhoven 及朋友们，右二:上海当代艺术馆执行馆孙文倩

Karen Van Godtsenhoven and friends

在苏珊桑塔格的坎普画廊之后，讲座将焦点转移到展览第二部分的“坎普之眼”画廊。该画廊展示了一个由100多个时尚剪影组成的坎普“玩具屋”，伴随着苏珊桑塔格的作品与合唱团的声乐结合，创造了高端的回声效果。玩具屋由十五个分组或“房屋”组成，按颜色排列在一起。在中间，中心是房子的迷你模型，配件与剪影相连。

After the Sontagian Camp gallery, the lecture shifted its focus to the second part, the Camp Eye gallery, which showcases a Camp “dollhouse” comprised of over 100 fashion silhouettes, accompanied by Sontag’s writings in combination with a choir creating the effect of a highly resonant “camp echo chamber.” The dollhouse consists of fifteen groupings or “houses,” clustering rooms together by color. In the middle, the centerpiece is a miniature version of the house, with accessories linked to the silhouettes.

感谢Karen Van Godtsenhoven，上海当代艺术馆的观众们对于坎普的概念有了新的理解——对于自从16世纪开始的社会，政治，和艺术演变的一种夸张的诠释。

Thanks to Karen Van Godtsenhoven, the audience of MoCA developed a new understanding of the idea of Camp, an extravagant illustration of the social, political, and artistic transformation since the 16th century and on.

------------------------------------

当前展览 / CURRENT EXHIBITION

《迪奥小姐：爱与玫瑰》

“MISS DIOR LOVE 'N ROSES EXHIBITION”

7月18号至8月9号 星期一至星期日早上十点至晚上六点

FROM JULY 18th TO AUGUST 9th 2019 – 10AM TO 6PM

全票: 70元 / 半票: 35元

Admission: 70 RMB / Discount: 35 RMB

艺术家 Artist :

劳拉·芭拉迪, 乌尔斯·费舍尔 Lara Baladi, Urs Fischer